Quilt binding and Bias tape. Are they the same or different? Which one is better to use? The simple answer is it depends on your project! Let’s look at the main differences so we’ll know which one to use when it comes to finishing the raw edges of your next project.
 
Bias tape is made from fabric strips (or tape) that have been cut on the bias or diagonal of the fabric. The bias of the fabric has more stretch to it and by cutting it on the diagonal, it will give you an end product with more flexibility which comes in handy when using it around curved edges. If it is cut on the straight grain of the fabric, it would be a bit too stiff when used around a curve like for instance a neck line or baby bib’s round edges. It is usually pressed in single fold or double fold.
 
Store bought bias tape comes in a variety of colors, single or double fold, various widths and lengths and is relatively cheap which makes it convenient. On the other hand it is easy and fun to make your own bias tape out of the exact fabric of choice you want for your project.
 
Quilt binding is used to bind a quilt or in other words cover the raw edges of the whole “quilt sandwich”. Fabric strips for the binding are cut on the straight grain of the fabric. As mentioned earlier, it will be less flexible, but since quilt edges are usually straight, it would not be a problem as with curves. Quilters usually make this themselves and most of the time choosing the fabric for the binding is as much part of picking fabrics for the rest of the quilt.
 
Let’s take a look at how to make the two types of binding:

You will need:
Cotton fabric - your specific project will determine the amount
Clear ruler
Fabric marker
Rotary cutter or scissors
Pins
Iron
Bias tape maker (optional) - they come in different sizes
 
Bias tape is cut on the bias which means it is cut at a 45° angle or on the diagonal of the fabric. Find the true bias by folding the fabric diagonally so that the straight edge of the crosswise grain is parallel to the lengthwise grain (the selvedge edge).

Press the diagonal fold. The fold will be your guide for cutting diagonal strips.

Method 1
Open the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, measure 1 inch from the fold on both sides, draw a line and cut a strip. The amount of strips you’ll need will depend on the project.
 
Note: the width and type of bias binding (single or double fold) will determine the width of the strips you cut. For instance, for 0.25 inch double fold bias tape, you will need to cut 1 inch wide strips: 0.25 x 4 = 1 inch.

To join the strips, pin two binding strips right sides together, with little triangles extending on each side. It will look like an upside down V. Use a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch and press open. The seam will sit at a 45° angle.

Use a bias tape maker and press the long edges of the binding towards the middle. This can be done by hand too if you don’t have a bias tape maker. Pin the beginning of the binding in place so it doesn’t shift.

You can keep the binding like this for single fold bias tape or fold it again lengthwise for double fold bias tape.

Method 2
If joining bias strips individually sounds too time consuming to you, with this method you can join the bias strips all at the same time.
 
Find the bias of the fabric as described earlier. Cut off the opposite corner triangles so your fabric resembles a parallelogram.

Use a fabric marker and on the wrong side of the fabric, mark strips in the desired width. Do not cut them apart.

Mark a ¼ inch seam allowance along the lengthwise grain (the top and bottom edges).

Fold the bottom edge (lengthwise grain edge) across to the top edge, right sides together. Once the edges are lined up, move the top fabric layer one strip marking over so it will match the second strip marking on the bottom fabric layer. Pin in place. Make sure the marked seam allowance and strips are lined up. It will form a sort of tube.

Stitch on the marked seam line. Press seam open.

Start at one end and cut along the marked line all the way to the opposite end. This will give you one long continuous bias strip. 

Use a bias tape maker or by hand and press the tape as described earlier.

You will need:
Cotton fabric - the size of your quilt will determine the amount
Clear ruler
Fabric marker
Pins
Rotary cutter or scissors
Iron
 
Quilt binding is usually cut on the straight grain, although bias tape could be used too. Horizontal or vertical cuts will work, but the design on the fabric will have to be kept in mind and might determine the direction.
 
To calculate the amount of fabric, the perimeter of the quilt plus 10 inches, the width of the strips and the width of the fabric will need to be taken in consideration.
 
Cut strips in the width of your choice. Personally I like to cut my binding strips anywhere between 2 and 2½ inches wide.

The strips will then be joined at a 45° angle. Take two strips, place them perpendicular to each other, draw a diagonal line as pictured. Stitch.

Trim the excess (I leave a ¼ inch seam allowance) and press seam open.

Fold in half lengthwise and press. This is now ready for binding your quilt.

For a more in depth post on how to bind a quilt, check out my previous tutorial here.
 
Note: there are numerous online binding calculators to help you calculate the amount of fabric needed for a project.

This is a simple floor quilt or playmat that is the ideal size for a baby or even your four-legged friend. It doesn’t have to be Christmas/holiday-themed like mine, but it just so happened that I had this adorable fabric left over from a previous project. I decided to combine it with solid white, navy and gray fabrics. I used a gray minky for the backing and gray-and-navy stripes for the binding.
 
The blocks are easy to assemble and one can always make more for a larger size quilt. Just keep in mind that you’ll have to adjust the length of the connecting strips if you make it larger.
 
Finished size: 35 x 35 inches
 
What you will need:
36 - 4.5” x 4.5” squares
36 - 4.5” x 1.5” short strips (white)
6 - 9.5” x 2.5” medium strips (white)
6 - 31 x 2.5” long strips (white)
9 - 1.5” x 1.5” small squares (navy)
4 - 2.5 x 2.5” large squares (navy)
Batting - 40” x 40”
Backing - 40” x 40” quilting cotton or minky
Binding - ⅓ yard cut into 4 strips, 2½” wide x 43” long 
Matching thread
 
* Use a ¼ inch seam allowance.*
 
Tips when sewing with minky:
Minky fabric can be tricky to work with. When I googled how to sew with minky, more than one person made the following recommendations:
Use a 90/14 universal needle
Use quilt basting spray like this
Use a walking foot

Assembly:
 
1. Lay out the printed squares in groups of four to your liking.

2. Make a four-square block by joining the top two squares with a short white strip. Do the same with the bottom two squares. Join two short white strips by adding a small navy square. Join the top and bottom squares with the white and blue pieced strip in between.

3. Repeat this until you have nine four-square blocks.

4. Join these blocks with the medium white strips. Make sure that the seam lines of each block line up with the other.

5. Add in the long white strips in between the assembled blocks. Add two long white strips on either side of the pieced top. Add the large navy squares on both ends of the remaining long strips. Attach to the quilt to complete the top.

6. Layer, quilt as desired and bind. For detailed step-by-step instructions on how to do these, take a look here. 

Fabrics used:
Printed squares - Aurora collection by Kate Spain for Moda Fabrics
White - Kona White by Robert Kaufman
Navy - Connecting Threads
Binding - Something Borrowed by Riley Blake
Backing - Soft & Minky Gray Stars

Surprise a loved one with a pretty handmade fabric gift bag this Christmas. 

I made these fabric gift bags in two sizes - medium and large. Measurements for the large bag are in parenthesis.
 
You’ll need:
2 - 8 x 10.5 inches cotton fabric for the outside of bag (10.5 x 13 inches)
2 - 8 x 10.5 inches cotton fabric for the lining of bag (10.5 x 13 inches)
2 - 8 x 10.5 inches batting (10.5 x 13 inches)
1 - 4.5 x 29 inches cotton fabric for the side panel (4.5 x 36.5 inches)
1 - 4.5 x 29 inches cotton fabric for side panel lining (4.5 x 36.5 inches)
1 - 4.5 x 29 inches batting for side panel (4.5 x 36.5 inches)
2 - 11 inch pieces of ribbon, chord or webbing for handles (15 inch)
2 - 30 inch pieces of ribbon or binding, ⅝ - ⅞ inches wide ( 37.5 inch)
Matching thread
 
Finished size:
Medium bag: 10 inches tall x 8 inches wide
Large bag: 12.5 inches tall x 10.5 inches wide
 
* Allow extra fabric for directional prints.
* I quilted straight lines, ½ inch apart on medium bag and an inch apart on large bag.
 
Instructions:
1. Cut the fabric and batting according to size.

2. Layer the outer fabric of the main panel on top of the batting. Quilt as desired. Do the same with the other panel as well as the side panel.

3. At the top of the outer panel, measure 2.5 inches (3 inches) from each side. Pin handles in place. Place the lining and outer panel right sides together and pin at the top. Stitch together using a ½ inch seam allowance. When stitching over handles, sew back and forth a couple of times so it’s secure. Do both sides. Stitch side panels together at both ends using a ½ inch seam allowance.

4. Edge stitch the outside of the main and side panels at the top.

5. Pin or clip bag so that seams face outward (on the outside of the bag). Using a ⅛ inch seam, stitch the side panel first to one main panel and then to the other. (I found it helped to clip the whole side panel in place before sewing).

6. To finish the raw edges of seams, start at the top of one seam, fold about 1 inch of the binding over the top to hide the seam and then down the sides. Again, clipping (or pinning) is crucial. Stitch binding in place. Repeat on the other side. And you’re done!

Whether you are celebrating a specific holiday or a loved one’s birthday, you need one of these little quilted flags to celebrate the occasion. It is a quick and fun sewing project that you can complete in a couple of hours. At the same time you’ll use up some of your fabric scraps, which always seems to multiply by itself.
 
Finished size: approximately 4 x 6 inches
 
Notes:

• Use a ¼ inch seam allowance throughout the project.
  
• I used flannel instead of regular batting to prevent the flag from being too rigid.
  
• I used cotton fabrics for the front and back. Feel free to embellish the flag with ribbon, lace, buttons, etc. The sky's the limit!
  

 
You will need:
1 - 2.5” x 3.75” cotton rectangle
2 - 1.5” x 3.5” cotton strips
2 - 1.5” x 6.75” cotton strips
1 - 4.5” x 6.75” flannel (“batting”)
1 - 4.5” x 6.75” cotton for the backing
1 - 10” long wood Dowel stick for the “flagpole”, 3/16” diameter
Matching thread

Instructions:
1. Lay the flag pieces out according to the picture. Sew the two short strips on one long side together. Press seam open.

2. Add the pieced strips to one short side of the rectangle. Press seam open.

3. Sew the two long strips together. Press seam open.

4. Add the long strips to the short strips. Press seam open.

5. Make sure the flannel and backing pieces are the same size as the top. If not, trim to the same size. Layer the quilt in the following way: flannel on the bottom; backing right side facing up; pieced top right side facing down. Pin around the edges.

6. Start sewing on the bottom of the flag, 2 inches from the “flagpole” corner, all around till you get to the bottom flagpole corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end. There will be an opening on the bottom to turn the flag right side out. Clip corners.

7. Gently turn right side out. Push corners out. Fold fabric at the opening ¼ inch to the inside. Press. Press all seams.

8. Change the top and/or bobbin thread according to the top and backing fabric. Sew the casing for the flagpole by stitching a straight line about ⅜ - ¼ inch from the side. You want the stick to fit snug in the casing.

9. Topstitch the flag’s top and bottom sides about ⅛ inch from the side. Stop when you reach the casing’s stitching. This will close the opening on the bottom at the same time.

10. Quilt the rest of the flag as desired. Once finished, insert the dowel stick into the casing.
 
That’s it! Once you’ve made one, you won’t be able to stop!

Welcome back to Part 2 of How to make a quilt. Last month we looked at pattern and fabric selection, fabric cutting, piecing and selecting a quilting design. In this tutorial we’ll look at layering the quilt, quilting and how to bind the quilt.
 
Like in the previous post, there are quite a few general tips as well as instructions. If you missed the previous post or need to take a look at the materials you’ll need, take a look here.

The thought of making a quilt can be overwhelming if you don’t know where to start. From fabric selection to choosing a pattern to quilting can make you quit even before you began. If you take it one step at a time though, it is doable and a very rewarding process. The purpose with this tutorial (Part 1) and next month’s (Part 2), is to explain how to make a quilt on a home sewing machine.
 
First I am going to mention a few general terms and tips. Below that will follow step-by-step instructions for an easy, beginner-friendly doll quilt. This month we’ll make the top, next month we’ll finish it by quilting and binding it.
 

• A quilt consists of three layers: top, batting and backing, which is often called the quilt sandwich.
• The top is the front of the quilt, the batting the inside or filling and the backing the fabric on the back of the quilt.
• The fabric border around the edges of the quilt is called the binding.

 
1. Choosing a pattern

• There are a wide variety of quilt patterns available, either online, in magazines or at fabric stores.
• For someone new to quilting it is better to start with a small project for instance a doll quilt, a table runner or a baby quilt.

• Pick a simple pattern that uses strips, rectangles or squares or a combination of these shapes. Triangles and other shapes can get tricky, so wait with that until you feel more confident in your quilting abilities.

 
2. Picking fabrics

• Most quilters use 100% cotton fabric for the top and backing, although you can use other types of fabric too. Cotton fabrics are easy to work with.
• If you have a hard time selecting and matching fabrics or have trouble coming up with a color scheme, it might be easier to pick fabrics from a collection where you will know that all colors match. Fabric designers come up with collections or fabric lines all the time which you’ll be able to buy online or at your local quilt store.
• Pre-cut fabrics have become very popular among quilters the last few years. If you’re not in the mood for cutting out fabric, you can buy pre-cut fabric in all shapes and sizes like squares, strips, rectangles, hexagons, etc. They do have some interesting names like charm packs, jelly rolls, layer cakes, fat quarters, etc.
• It is a good idea to have different scale designs on your fabric.
• Keep in mind the direction of a design. Sometimes it has a one-way direction and you may end up needing more fabric than what is needed per the instructions of the pattern.
• Keep in mind who the quilt is intended for and thus the design on the fabric - doll, baby, boy, girl.
• Some quilters pre-wash their fabric (to prevent shrinkage and/or color bleeding) while others do not. Generally, if you buy good quality cotton, you won’t have trouble with shrinkage or in most cases bleeding. Color bleeding may still happen especially with a vibrant color like red.
• Pre-wash: unfold the fabric, place in warm water and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Remove from the water and tumble dry or air dry (I prefer the latter).

 
3. Fabric cutting

• Cut the fabric on the lengthwise grain of the fabric or alternatively the crosswise grain. Do not cut on the bias, since this will cause the fabric to stretch and result in uneven size pattern pieces.
• Keep in mind the direction of a design or a specific design on the fabric.
• Be very precise in measuring and cutting.
• It is most helpful to use a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and wide plastic ruler when cutting.

 
4. Fabric layout

• You can do this on a tabletop, bed or design wall.
• Avoid having blocks of the same fabric too close in proximity to each other.
• Take a picture of the layout as reference at this point - it will come in handy in Step 5.

 
5. Piecing

• Always use a 0.25 inch seam allowance when piecing (stitching).
• Use a neutral color thread.
• Be very precise when sewing. This will result in perfectly lined-up seams later on.

 
6. Pressing

• When pressing (ironing) the pieced fabrics, you can either press the seams open or press it to the sides keeping it closed. Some quilters prefer one way and some the other. It is up to you. I prefer to press it open.
• Don’t iron the seams too much. You really just want to press them.

 
7. Deciding on a quilting design

• Before layering the quilt, you need to decide on a quilting design or motif. This will be your guide when stitching (quilting) through all three layers. It can be a real simple or complicated design. Again like with picking the quilt pattern, choose something simple for your first project.
• It is easier to draw the design onto the pieced top before layering the quilt. I like to use a water soluble fabric pen or a Clover Hera marker.
  
• Different types of quilting include:

1. Stitch in the ditch, where you sew in the seam line.
2. Outline, on one or both sides of the seam line.
3. Stippling, meandering all over.
4. Quilting a specific design for instance a feather motif.

Finished size approximately 16 inches x 23.5 inches (40.5cm x 60cm).

My doll quilt shown here in the picture, consists of 48 rectangles. Two rectangles, one light and one dark(er), form a square.

You’ll need the following:

• Fabric scraps:
  24 light colored 2.5 x 4.5 inch rectangles.
  24 dark(er) colored 2.5 x 4.5 inch rectangles.
  
• Batting: 22 inches x 29 inches
• Backing fabric:  (100% cotton) 22 inches x 29 inches
• Binding fabric: 2 strips x 2 ¼ inches wide x 42 inches long
• Thread matching the top and backing (if different in color)
  

1. Cut the fabrics according to the instructions.

2. Lay out the rectangles in the way it is shown on the picture. Each group of two rectangles will form a square when pieced together, finished size 4.5 inches x 4.5 inches.

3. Once you’re satisfied with the layout, take a picture for future reference. Now you can start piecing (sewing). Start at the top left corner and pin the one long edge of the two rectangles together. Make sure the edges and corners line up perfectly. Use a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Backstitch at the beginning and end. Continue doing this with all the rectangles forming squares.
 
4. Once you’ve finished all the squares, you need to press the seams with an iron. See Step 6 (above) for instructions on how to press.

5. After pressing, lay all squares out on a flat surface. Use the picture you took earlier as reference to get the same layout as before.

6. Again, start at the top left corner, working from left to right, pin the squares together. Sew.
Finish all six rows. Press.

7. Pin rows together, lining up seams and sew. Press. You’ve finished the quilt top!

8. Decide on a quilting design and draw it onto the pieced top.

Come back next month for Part 2 on how to make a quilt. We will learn how to layer the quilt, quilt it and how to add the binding.

This is an easy and fast tutorial on how to change a plain flour sack tea towel from boring to beautiful! Mine has a Christmas theme, but finish it anyway you like. The sky's the limit!

You’ll need the following:
 
Flour Sack Tea Towel (I got mine off Amazon)
Fabric
Ribbon, Pom-pom trim, rick-rack
Matching thread

1. Measure the width of the tea towel. Mine is about 19 inches wide.   
 
2. Cut a strip of fabric 2.5 inches x width of the tea towel + 2 inches. In my case it would be 2.5 inches x 21 inches. The extra 2 inches are for seam allowances on the sides of the fabric strip.
 
3. Measure 2.5 inches up from the bottom edge of the towel on the right side of the tea towel. Draw a line across the width of the tea towel using a water soluble fabric marker. Pin strip with right side facing down to the edge of marked line. On both sides you want an inch of fabric to hang over the edge. Sew in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

4. Fold strip over and press towards the top of the towel. Fold the opposite long edge of the strip ¼ inch under and press. Fold the sides of the fabric strip ½ inch under and then another ½ inch. Press. Pin everything in place and topstitch around all the edges.

5. Add any embellishment to make it look festive.
* When sewing with pom-pom trim I like to use my zipper foot. It just gives me a little more space when sewing the trim in place.

Once I started I couldn’t stop myself! Take a look at these:

Are you in need of a new pincushion? Look no further, because the Log Cabin pincushion is not only functional, but pretty too! Made up of strips of light and dark fabrics, you can use fabric from your scrap bin. And while you’re at it, why not make a second one to give to a friend? An easy and quick sew to spruce up your sewing room.

Click here to download the pdf version.

Materials:

Cut the following fabric:
* One (1) 2¼” x 2¼” square (light fabric A)
* Two (2) 1” x 2¼” strips (dark fabric B)
* Two (2) 1” x 3¼” strips (light fabric C)
* Two (2) 1¼” x 3¼” strips (dark fabric D)
* Two (2) 1¼” x 4¾” strips (light fabric E)
 
* One (1) 5” square for back of pincushion (any matching fabric)
* Two (2) 5” squares of batting
 
* matching thread
* 3” piece ribbon (optional)
* Filler  (ground walnut shells, steel wool, sawdust, sand, lentils, fabric scraps)
------------------------------------------------------
Notes:

• Be very precise with measurements when cutting fabric.
• Use a ¼” seam allowance.
• Press all seams open.
• Remember to backstitch.
• Finished size approximately: 4¼” square

------------------------------------------------------

Instructions:
 
1. Start by laying fabric pieces for the top of the pincushion out flat (See photo). Sew the B fabric strips to opposite sides of piece A. Press seams open.
 
2. Add pieces C to the other two sides of block A. Press seams.
 
3. Continue doing this with pieces D and E. Press after each set of strips are added.

4. Layer and center top of pincushion on batting, pin in place with a few pins. Do the same with backing fabric.

5. Quilt as desired. I quilted straight lines about a ¼” from each other. Adjust stitch length to a slightly bigger stitch.

6. Trim batting and backing fabric to match top - approximately 4¾“ square.
 
7. Optional: Fold ribbon in half and pin to one side of the pincushion top. Stitch in place.

8. Pin top and back, right sides together. Stitch all around leaving a 3” opening on one side. Back stitch at the beginning and end.

9. Clip the corners and turn right side out; push out corners.

10. Fill the pincushion. (I prefer ground walnut shells, but other options include steel wool, sawdust, sand, lentils, fabric scraps.)

11. Close up the opening of the pincushion by using a ladder stitch.

Today’s tutorial is more practical than anything else, but hopefully one that will help you as much as it has helped me.  When driving, my seat belt rubs my collarbone and/or shoulder up to the point where I can't stand it no longer. This only happens in the warmer months when I am obviously not bundled up with layers of clothing. I have often wondered if other people have the same problem. According to Google people do, you can even buy seat belt pads/covers for protection. So it seems my problem is not unique and so isn’t the idea of a seat belt shoulder pad either.
 
I decided to try my hand at making one. It is a fast and simple project to protect your collarbone and/or shoulder from getting chafed. No more friction or irritation!
 
Keep the following in mind:

• Measure the width of your car’s seat belt. Mine is 1⅞” wide.
• I didn’t want the pad to be too visible, so I chose a neutral, dark fabric for the front, back and binding. You can certainly use a vibrant fabric if you like or even more than one color fabric.
• Technically, this is a mini quilt, consisting of top, batting, backing and binding.
• I used a 100% cotton fabric with a single layer of cotton batting in between. If you want something even softer, how about using flannel or a cuddle fabric? You can also use a double layer of batting or a thicker type batting. You will have to adjust the fabric measurements accordingly.
  

Step 1:
Measure the width of your car’s seat belt if you haven’t done so already. If it varies a lot from my measurement (1⅞”), you will have to adjust accordingly. Cut the fabric and batting according to measurements above.
On the top layer of fabric, draw a quilt design using a water soluble fabric marker, hera marker or tailor’s chalk. I chose parallel lines an inch apart.

Step 2:
Layer the “sandwich” by putting the backing wrong side facing up, followed by the batting and the top with marked design. Pin or baste in place. Usually when I pin the quilt layers together I use curved safety pins, but since this is such a small “quilt”, I opted for using regular pins to hold everything together.

Step 3:
Quilt the design. After quilting is completed, square up the quilt by cutting away excess batting.

Step 4:
Cut the binding strip if you haven’t done so already. Sew in place.

Step 5:
Take the soft part of the Velcro and position it close to one long edge on the top of the quilt. It can slightly overlap with the binding. Stitch in place. (When you sew with Velcro, try to sew close to the edges where there are no hooks or loops.)

Step 6:
For the next step you need to go to your car. Wrap the pad snugly around the seat belt, measure where the other piece of Velcro needs to go so the pad will stay in place. Pin Velcro in place or take measurement.
Stitch in place on the back side (close to the long edge) of pad. Mine is about ¾” from the edge of the binding. 

Step 7:
Once you’ve done that, you are ready to go for a frictionless drive and test out your new seat belt shoulder pad!

The design for the Crossroads pillow has a funny beginning. I was looking down at the shower floor one night and the drain cover caught my eye. Since I am always looking for new quilt designs, I thought the drain cover’s design had some potential! I figured I could piece and quilt that. Therefore this pillow. I don’t know who designed the drain cover, but my thanks go out to this person - and I hope it’s okay for me to use it.

Keep the following in mind:

• This is a fairly easy pattern to piece, but it is important to keep the seam lines of each row in line with the other.
  
• Begin with the middle row and work your way toward the outsides.
  
• Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout the pattern.
  
• I prefer open pressed seams, but if you like pressing seams to the side it’s fine.
  
• For the back of the pillow I used a simple envelope style pillowcase. You can certainly use a different method. Adjust yardage accordingly.
  

 
What you will need:

• ⅜ yard of background fabric + 1 yard for backing of quilt and pillowcase (back)
  
• ⅛ yard of color 1 (light)
• ⅛ yard of color 2 (dark)
• matching thread
• 22” square batting
• ¼ yard binding fabric
  
• 20x20” pillow insert

Step 1
Cut the following pieces:

• Background fabric:     
  
  • 6 - 20 ½ x 1 ½”
    
  • 4 - 9 ½ x 2 ½”
    
  • 4 - 6 ½ x 2 ½” 
    
  • 4 - 3 ½ x 2 ½”
    
  • 18 - 2 ½ x 1 ½”
    
• Color 1 (lighter color): 12 - 2 ½ x 2 ½”
• Color 2 (darker color):
  
  • 4 - 4 ½ x 2 ½”
    
  • 5 - 2 ½ x 2 ½”
    
• Batting: 1 - 22 x 22” square
• Backing: 1 - 22  x 22” square
• Back of pillow: 2 - 20 ½ x 14” rectangles
• Binding: 3 - 43 x 2 ½” strips 

Step 2
Starting with the middle row A, from left to right, sew fabric pieces together in the right order. Continue doing that with both B rows. Press seams.  

Step 3
Continue by sewing a white 20 ½ by 1 ½” strip on each side of row A. Press.

Step 4
Use a fabric marking pen and mark the seam lines on both sides of the white strips. Pin both B rows in place. Make sure that the seam lines of row A and both B rows line up. Sew together.
Add another white strip on both sides. Press.

Step 5
When you reach rows C and D, do both rows at the same time. Start by laying all the pieces out on a flat surface. Sew Row C 1, 2 and 3 together (see diagram at beginning of instructions). Then add D4. Press. Follow the same steps for the other three sections. Remember that the left sides are mirror images of the right sides. Once you have done this and pressed everything, you can add the middle piece, (5). Continue adding rows until you have finished the top of the
pillowcase.

Step 6
Before you layer the quilt, draw your quilt design of choice onto the fabric using a fabric marking pen or a hera marker. For this pillow I chose parallel lines, an inch apart.

Step 7
Layering of the quilt sandwich: spread the backing fabric (this is not the back of the pillowcase, but the back of the top) out on a flat surface (table or floor). Make sure it lies flat and is wrinkle free. This is very important and will save you a lot of frustration later. Tape the backing, using painter’s tape or masking tape, to the surface. Put the batting on top of that, again making sure it lies flat. Then add the pillowcase top on top of that. Using curved safety pins, pin the sandwich together. Now you’re ready to quilt.

Once you’re done quilting, remove the excess backing and batting.

Step 8
Once the quilting is completed, it’s time to finish the pillowcase. I made a simple envelope style pillow case for the back. Take two 20 ½ x 14” rectangles, fold one long edge over about one inch and then again another inch. Iron. Sew in place. Pin one rectangle (right side up) to the backing of the quilt. Baste ⅛” from the edge. Do the same with the other rectangle. They will overlap in the middle.

Step 9
The only thing remaining before you’re done is to add the binding. Use the three binding strips, join them together with diagonal seams, press in half lengthwise and bind the quilt your preferred way.

Simple and fun! I love the way this pillow turned out! Now I am ready to go sit and have a cup of coffee! For another version of this pillow, see this post.